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| As Russia has tried to substitute some imports from the West, it has expanded manufacturing of textiles, footwear, food products and basic electronics, noted Ekaterina Kurbangaleeva, a visiting scholar at George Washington University, specializing in political and social research, including Russian taxpayer data. Some types of workers saw their wages triple and in some cases quintuple between 2021, the year before Russia launched its war, and 2024, her research has found. | India beckons Western fashion brands — but their cultural missteps can be costly [[https://trip-scan.cc/|tripskan]] |
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| “It was like a shot of adrenaline,” Kurbangaleeva said of the wartime boost to the economy, though she noted the slowdown in economic growth since then. | When Prada sent several pairs of brown sandals with distinctive toe rings and intricate stitching down its menswear runway in Milan last month, observers were quick to point out their resemblance to a centuries-old piece of Indian heritage. |
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| Some of Russia’s more deprived, rural areas have also experienced an economic uplift since the start of the war, in part because of huge pay checks going to Russian soldiers and their families – a strategy the Kremlin has used to recruit volunteer soldiers and avoid wider conscription as it seeks to replace those lost on the frontlines in Ukraine. | The storied Italian fashion house may have presented the shoes as a new luxury creation, but many in India simply saw a pair of Kolhapuri chappals — traditional hand-crafted sandals with roots stretching back to the 12th or 13th century. |
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| “Russian soldiers today are paid more than any Russian soldier in the history of Russian soldiers,” RUSI’s Connolly said. “They have been earning more money than they ever would have hoped to have earned if they’d have stayed in those relatively depressed parts of the country and got another job in the civilian economy.” | Prada’s initial failure to acknowledge the inspiration behind the shoes, which had earlier been described by the brand simply as “leather flat sandals,” according to the Guardian, sparked fierce and ongoing debate over cultural appropriation. Critics accused the label of erasing the legacy of Indian artisans, with voices across social media calling out what they saw as blatant design theft. |
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| The Russian government has also disbursed large compensation payments to the families of soldiers killed or injured in the war, Kurbangaleeva noted. | Within a week, Prada had acknowledged in a letter to an Indian trade group that the sandals in its men’s Spring-Summer 2026 collection were indeed “inspired by traditional Indian footwear.” In a statement to CNN, the brand said it has “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design.” Prada later added that it had met artisanal footwear manufacturers in India “to discuss potential opportunities for future collaboration.” |
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| In part by throwing money at the military workforce and their families, the Kremlin has managed to temper discontent despite Russian casualties in Ukraine nearing 1 million people, with 250,000 of those dead, according to a CSIS estimate published in June. | Prada’s readiness to confront the controversy could be a reflection of the fashion industry’s growing interest in India’s luxury consumers — and a reluctance to anger them. But the episode also epitomizes how Western labels have often struggled to meaningfully engage with the country’s crafts and culture. |
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| | A burgeoning luxury market |
| | India’s luxury market is on a dramatic ascent, estimated to expand from $7.73 billion in 2023 to $11.3 billion by 2028 — a rate that would likely outpace most of the world’s major luxury markets, according to global consulting firm Kearney. |
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| | This projected growth is fueled by a rising middle class, increased urbanization and a new generation of brand-conscious, internationally minded young consumers. But today’s Indian luxury consumer is “no longer a singular archetype,” according to the celebrated Indian fashion designer Gaurav Gupta. |
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| | “We’re seeing a beautifully diverse audience, from second-gen industrialist families to first-gen digital entrepreneurs, artists and global citizens — who are all looking for something deeper than just a logo,” he said in an email. |
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